Behold: NYFW: Men’s Fall 2020 Review

It’s hard not to reminisce on what New York Fashion Week: Men’s use to be at its inception. Four years ago, the NYFW: Men’s festivities packed nearly 60 shows into four days. The schedule included a line up of designers from American heavy-hitters Calvin Klein Collection; John Varvatos; Michael Kors, to designers the rise who showed during New York Men’s Day (what’s popping Krammer & Stoudt and David Hart). Skylight Clarkson North, an industrial space tricked out with Cadillacs and Amazon goodies in downtown Manhattan served as home for the event. If I were talking to my homeboy’s about the week I’d described it as a movie (aka epic).

David Hart Fall 2020 Collection

Recent seasons of NYFW: Men’s however aren’t as well orchestrated. Gone are the decked out whips, celebrity influencers and a swanky central location to house industry insiders between shows. And the once packed calendar of over 60 shows now barely has a roster of 20 runway shows, presentations, and press appointments. Oh, how the mighty men’s week has fallen. So what about the clothes now that designers can’t rely on free wine and Instagram-able moments in front of cars to woo show-goers before their collection debuts. 

Timo Weiland Fall 2020 Collection

Fall 2020 found many of the designers showing in the Big Apple expanding on classic menswear using color, textures, traditional feminine silhouettes and sustainable practices to curate their offerings. David Hart’s literal take on men’s luxury featured pants ranging from slim fits to wide legs, button-down shirting, floral print lapels and fabrics from previous seasons including fall 2018’s cigarette and spring 2018’s banana prints. KA WA KEY, a brand that believes everyone can be a twink regardless of their sexuality (according to their Instagram bio) pushed texture and color at their presentation with fuzzy sweaters reading “tame me” and "I’m sick of toxic masculinity." Ripping the runway at KEENKEE were models in holographic separates with flip phone mouthpieces. The many hues found at Timo Weiland’s presentation created some interesting color-blocking moments while Todd Hessert adorned puffer coats and embossed croc jackets with Cuban link chains. 

KA WA KEY Fall 2020 Collection

Beyond the confinement of the 3 designated men’s focused days what continues to be a trend is American designers showing menswear during the unveiling of the womenswear collections and across the pond in Europe. Dion Lee, Romeo Hunte, Tibi, Eckhaus Latta, Private Policy and Palm Angels included multiple menswear looks in their Fall 2020 line ups during the womenswear leg of New York Fashion Week. And then there’s Band of Outsiders and John Elliot, American designers that opted to fly their menswear collections to London and Paris respectively for their debuts.

There’s no question that from emerging to seasoned designers there’s an overflow of menswear talent based here in states with The City That Never Sleeps as their fashion hub. The question moving forward is if the powers that be can get the American designers to unite around New York Fashion Week: Men’s and rival the menswear scenes in London, Milan, and Paris? Below are pictures from NYFW: Men’s shot by Ammar Thomas.

Photography by Ammar Thomas